Basic Pants Patterns / Pants block

 Hello Clouds

Today, to complete our set of basic patterns or basic bodice patterns, I bring you the class to make pants patterns. if you want to see the past classes on this topic here you have the links:

Basic Top patterns

Basic Sleeve

Basic Skirt

Now, how to make your pants patterns?

You are going to need the following measurements:

💛Waist contour

💛Hips contour

💛Pant length (from waist to ankle)

💛Ankle contour

💛Crotch length

If you need help on how to take the measurements, check this post 👉 click here

About the crotch length: this is a very tricky measurement, and it's vital to get it accurate for a good result in our patterns. You can get it in 2 ways as shown in this image, 

1: sit on a flat surface and measure from your waist to the surface

2: outside leg - inside leg = crotch length

For more explanations and more tips on how to get the perfect crotch measurement see the video class at the bottom of this post.

Note: This method is to trace customized patterns, so we are not using any chart of standard measurements. Customized patterns are made specially to fit the body type and real measurements, so for that, we use formulas you see in the diagram below, for example, when we divide our hips contour by 32 to get the crotch curve.

These formulas are based on the proportions in our bodies. Whatever is our body type, it is always proportioned so these formulas will work and we will get more accurate patterns than if we use a measurements chart. In this way for example, our armhole length is equal to one-sixth part of our bust contour, our front crotch extension is equal to divide our hips round by 16, etc.

For more details about the formulas, measurements to mark, and the modifications you need to make for different types of bodies, see the video class below, if you have any doubt, leave me a comment and I will be happy to help you.

Happy stitches

Sandy

💙

Straight pants with elastic

Hello Clouds

Today i will explain you how to make straight pants with elastic. Not a tailored ones, since a lot of people is requesting me to make simpler pants patterns.

This project is perfect for beginners and you can use the same patterns to make a pajama, loose pants with drawstrings instead of elastic, or even attach belt and zipper or buttons if you gather the waistline.

These pants are perfect to be worn under kurtas, tunics, or  any long top.

Here you have the link to the video tutorial with all the process step by step, including the making of the patterns the cutting of the pieces and stitching.

just click on the image

And for reference, in this post i will show you the step by step to make the patterns, remember is always better to make patterns on paper so you can save it to make more garments.

So, lets start:

FRONT PATTERN

Start drawing a 90 degrees angle and mark the following:

NUMBER 1: (1/4 hips contour)+ 0.5" (why hips and no waist? because we need loosing to insert the elastic, and it must be slightly bigger than the hips so you wont be tight when put it on)

NUMBER 2: Crotch length ( For this pants no need to be exact because is usually low, so measure it directly on the body as shown in the picture below, is up to you where you want it, in the video i used 10" for the pants i made, just dont measure going inside, only straight vertical) and DONT INCLUDE the waistband,belt or elastic.

NUMBER 3: Pant length, from waist, downwards as much as you want,for long pants reach the ankle. But IMPORTANT: dont consider the waistband or belt or elastic here. we will add it later when cutting the fabric.

NUMBER 4: Trace a vertical line from the point 1
NUMBER 4a: Trace an horizontal line from the point 2 reaching the line 4
NUMBER 5: From the corner to the point 1,mark half of the segment and trace a vertical line to get the central line of your pant
NUMBERS 6 and 6´: From the point 3 trace an horizontal line. Decide the bottom width of your pant, (bottom leg width) and mark half of this measurement to every side of the central line. I wanted to be 8" so  i marked 4" to every side of the central line.

NUMBER 7: extend the line 4a to the left 1.5" and mark the point 7
NUMBER 8: trace the crotch curve as shown

Trace lines from 2 to 6´ , and from 7 to 6.
OPTIONAL: if you want your pant even more straight, trace the line 7 - 6 making a curve as shown.

And there you have the front pattern for your pants (red line in the right)

BACK PATTERN

NUMBER 9: From the left corner, mark 3 cm in the horizontal (waistline)
NUMBER 10: From the point 9 mark 3 cm upwards.
NUMBER 11: From the point 7 ( crotch corner) mark 3 cm out, to the left,and then from this point mark 1 cm downwards.
RIGHT IMAGE: Join the point 11 and 10 tracing the crotch curve as shown.
From the point 10 trace a line passing on the right corner of the waistline and extend it to have the same measurement than the front waistline, then join with the hips point and continue tracing the contour of the pattern.
Add 1 cm extra in the inner leg line and in the side leg line also as shown.

AND THERE YOU HAVE YOUR PANT PATTERNS :)

To cut and stitch, follow the video tutorial mentioned above, or here you have the link also:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-seyERXH8o

If you have any doubt tell me in a comment in this post.

Happy stitches !